Christmas in Portugal

23rd- I wake up early, finish packing, catch a cab to the bus station, followed by a 10 hour bus ride to Lisbon, the second half of which I was so bus sick that I thought I might die and was literally curled up on the seat crying. That bit they were playing Me myself and Irene, and I'm not sure I'm ever going to be able to watch that movie again without feeling sick. The first half I watched a clockwork orange, which was a fabulous film, but I was sad to watch it because I'd been holding out to read the book first, and I loathe reading books after seeing their film version. But then I finally arrived, and Mariana picked me up. As it turned out, the bus station was right next to the old world's fair fairgrounds where I had been when I was five years old, the last time I was in Portugal. I was introduced for the first time to the Gray family, with whom I'd be staying.

24th- Christmas lunch at the Gray's house; thai food. The guests were mostly ambassadors. They mostly spoke in English, since everyone spoke that, but some Portuguese. The food was fabulous. Afterwards we went to an 8 o clock midnight mass at a little English speaking church. I ate a body of christ wafer. I wasn't sure which was more inappropriate, to take it, or not to take it. Then they opened presents, and I had a stocking, which was incredibly sweet of them.

25th- Christmas lunch at a friend's house, a family which is apparently the largest date company owners in all of the middle east, and possibly the world. We had fantastic Moroccan food, including hummus and cous cous, and plenty of dates! Then we went to Luis' family dinner, which was maybe 50 or so people, with lots of portuguese food. Unfortunately I didn't eat much of that, since most of it had meat, and also because I was too stuffed from lunch! But I tried this interesting sort of cheesecakeish thing, which was delicious. I met a couple who run a music managing company and a 30 day world music festival. The man is from mexico and the woman used to live in Union sq, so I spoke a combination of spanish and english with them.

26th- Went into lisbon (i'm staying right outside of lisbon) to a beautiful cathedral, went to two very modern art exhibits, went to the center of town, and then went back for dinner. I might add more details on the exhibits later.

27th- went to the westernmost point of europe, which was beautiful and windy and fantastic. Then now I'm going back into lisbon to the old cathedral and the design museum and who knows what else!

On all the days, everyone I spoke to was incredibly well traveled and interesting, and extremely talented at small talk. I picked up a little Portuguese, and kind of want to learn it after spanish. I'm having a fabulous incredible time, and finally have real things to report! Much love and best holiday wishes to everyone.

This is a blog post....

I had extremely long extremely perfect round nails, but then they got chipped so I cut them down to stubbly nubs.

We have some new members of our household. Two are just here for the weekends; Manoli’s daughter Paula and Paula’s son Sergio come and stay with us on the weekends, because her husband (also named Sergio) got send off to Iraq. The other appears to be permanent, and I find it far more disturbing; a giant pig’s leg, including hoof and the works sits proudly in the middle of our kitchen, right next to the water and the fruit. Manoli and Imad casually cut off little slices when they feel like it.

That reminds me of how when Paula and her family used to come over for lunch or something, I would always say ‘when are the Sergios’ getting here’ because it was plural and I found that amusing.

I have somehow gotten Livia approximately 9 times nuttier than she was, or at least revealed herself to be. Friday we very loudly sang along to instruments playing Christmas songs in Plaza Mayor. Opera style. In two different languages. (But mostly we forgot the words so a non-language.)

For Christmas here, they give presents on the day of the three kings (January 6th) not from Papa Noel. Although now they do that sometimes too, but that’s like the Non-Spanish Way.

Turron is their big Christmas candy, in all sorts of different types.

I joined the gym and now I do a spin class 5 times a week and pilates 2 times.

I remember a lot of my dreams now, even a bunch that I had a while ago but forgot about.

I got my library priveledges temporarily suspended from bringing back books late but now I got them back so I’m going to go take out The Cloven Viscount (Italo Calvino) in Spanish! I’m also reading The Catcher in the Rye in Spanish but the book is completely falling apart so its annoying to read.

Milena left for Germany, and it was sad. It’s strange to think that I’ll be leaving soon as well. I feel bad for Livia, because while both Jasmin and I (her closest friends here) are leaving in January, she will be here until June.

Holiday break starts wednesday, at which point I'm headed to Lisbon, capital of Portugal to stay with the Gray family (family friends) for christmas and such.

Chanukah has come and gone, with none a latkah because a) I forgot to make them and b) there are no jews in Salamanca. When I say that i mean it in all seriousness, because they all got kicked out and never came back. Many people haven't even heard of chanukah.

I miss home but mostly all is good. I've been studying a lot and I took all of my exams, for the most part doing really well, especially considering that they aren't in my native tongue. My Spanish has improved, though its not really where I want it to be, but thats okay. In some ways I'm very ready to go home, but in others I really wish I could stay the whole year.